Tuesday 27 May 2008

Growing Strawberries In Containers


Growing strawberries in containers is not difficult, in fact there are very few garden plants that can't be grown in containers, although soft fruit generally do not make successful subjects. This is because most types are fairly shallowly rooted and therefore prone to drying out. Any plant in a container will suffer more easily from water shortage than one in the open garden, and water shortage in a fruiting plant means poor quality fruit. All of these factors can lead to problems, but if you are prepared to devote more than the normal amount of attention to watering and plant initially with care, then it is possible to obtain modest crops of soft fruit, even on a paved area by someone with no real garden.

Because of their small size, strawberries are the most amenable of soft fruit to container cultivation. You can either use a strawberry tub, made of terracotta or plastic and with holes in the sides, or alternatively an open wooden half-barrel or similar sized vessel. They are a fairly attractive option for someone who otherwise has no room to grow strawberries, but they are far from ideal. A great deal of good soil based compost will be required and the crop will inevitably be fairly small because most of the runners must be removed and the plants placed close together, so restricting them in size. Watering will be a necessary and continuing chore and you may well have poor ripening. This is because half of the container will almost inevitably face away from the sun, unless it is small enough to be turned regularly. It will also be necessary to help the pollination process by dusting over the open flowers with a soft paint brush. With relatively few plants you must ensure that as many flowers as possible set fruit.

One of the most interesting developments in container raising of soft fruit in recent years has been to grow strawberries in long containers above head height in greenhouses, so that the fruit hangs down for ease of picking. Commercially, various systems have been adopted, including the use of growing bags of soilless compost and wide diameter sections of plastic gutter pipe into which drainage holes have been drilled. Any system of this type does depend on having strong shelves to support the containers and ideally, on installing some system of automated irrigation and provision of liquid feed. This is probable not a technique suitable for every garden, but a gardener with a large, more or less redundant greenhouse could make excellent use of the facility and could extend the strawberry cropping season considerably by using day-neutral varieties such as Selva, Fern, Tribute and Tristar. These will crop all year round if temperatures are adequate as they are not dependant, like the more familiar and older varieties, on the long days of summer for flowering to commence.

Visit the Strawberry Store for a great selection of Containers and Planters.

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Saturday 24 May 2008

Building Structures For Growing Strawberries

It is probably fair to say that soft fruit like strawberries are not uniquely attractive to birds, but they are certainly high on the list of garden plants that suffer most from bird damage. Birds of many types find soft fruit plants worthy of their attention at most times of the year. The fruit are clearly desirable to them as food in the summer, although they tend to ripen at a time when there is plenty of other food material available. Most gardeners find that it is during the winter months that birds cause the greatest damage by feeding on the buds, and it's in cold months, with food supplies in general fairly low, that a fruit cage really pays for itself.

Protective Cages

I know that I share many other gardeners' sentiments in saying that I simply couldn't grow soft fruit without proper protection. At a pinch, canes and bushes can be protected by throwing loose netting over them, but this rarely very satisfactory and I have to say that my own considerable investment in plants and time would be wasted without the added cost of a decent cage. There are now several proprietary fruit cages available in fairly readily assembled kit form. Most comprise a light tubular aluminium frame over which lightweight plastic netting is fitted.

Modern modular construction means that almost any size of cage can be constructed to fit your own range of plants. Alternatively, a more robust cage can be made from rustic poles of treated timber, if preferred.

Netting

The netting should be chosen carefully and be of a mesh size that excludes small birds and yet be unlikely to trap their legs. The ideal mesh is between about 0.5in (1.3cm) and 0.75in (2cm) across. The side netting on proprietary fruit cages is usually plastic but galvanised chicken wire makes a stronger construction for cages with wooden frames. Galvanised wire should not be for the top netting, however. Not only is it harder to support than lightweight plastic, but damage to fruit plants will occur from zinc washed from the netting by rain. Lower cages of similar style, about 12in (30cm) tall can be used for strawberry beds, although growing early strawberries under cloches obviates the need for any additional protection.